Feeling Loopy on the M/V Donna Mae
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Week 21 & 22: August 7-21

8/22/2017

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USA, USA, USA (with fist pumps in the air)!!!! It’s great to be back. Canada was lovely, and the people there were lovely too….but  it was WAY too expensive and cold. In a moment of Canadian frustration, Derek anchored in a crowed popular anchorage in Georgian Bay, put out our very large American flag, and blared Bob Seger on the stereo. Yes…he was that obnoxious American that other countries hate!!!! It was torture to be in such beautiful clear water and not being able to jump in due to the 70-degree water temp and even colder air temps. Derek got in once to untangle yet another rope around one of our propellors and was shaking like a leaf. And speaking of propellors, the big rocks in the shallow water in the Trent-Severn Waterway and Georgian Bay put several dings in ours and we had to have them reshaped and tuned at Drummond Island Marina. Another $1000 (or as Derek calls it ‘one boat unit’) and now Donna Mae plows through the water like a hot knife through butter. We also got our bow thrusters fixed.

Going through customs was nerve racking. Our kitty had no vaccination records (she was only 8 weeks old) and we had heard that they could take her and put her in quarantine. We were so nervous that you’d think we were trying to smuggle in a kilo of cocaine! And of course we got ‘Mr. Grumpy, no nonsense, customs bad-ass’ when we pulled in. A Custom’s officer comes to your boat when you dock. As you all know, Derek and I ALWAYS pop a beer once we’re tied to the dock. We also have a smoke. Well this Custom’s dude comes walking up and wants to know why I’m so nervous that I have to light up. Then he asks me to put it out because some ash might get on his uniform (mind you I’m on my own freakin’ boat and he is on the dock). But I can’t be a smart-ass back because he might decide to board and find my cat!!!! BUT, he didn’t ask about pets so we didn’t have to worry after all. She was hidden in her crate in the second bedroom. Gypsea now has the honor of dual citizenship and received all her shots last week. She’s now being leash trained and we take her into towns when we walk around to see the sites.

The northern area of Georgia Bay is known as ’30,000 Islands’ and they aren’t kidding! Most are huge boulders left over from the glaciers who’s peaks stick out of the water everywhere. They are smooth and rounded and look like Colorado’s ‘Garden of the Gods’ but surrounded by water. It was sometimes over 100 feet deep right next to a rock island, and at other times we thought we were in deep water and the boulders would be just below the surface. It took precision boating as some winding  channels only had about 20 feet between the buoys to maneuver through!!!

We are currently in the upper peninsula of Michigan. The water is still cold, but very clear and deep. Lake Huron has big waves and we’re getting a taste of the rocking and rolling that we can expect on Lake Michigan. We were on the water during the eclipse. WEIRD DAY! It was sunny when we started, then hit fog a couple hours in. When I say fog….I mean we couldn’t see more than a couple hundred feet in front of us. All we had was radar and our horn. We avoided a collision with a sail boat that suddenly appeared right in front of us. We knew it was there…radar showed him right on us and we heard each others horns….but we were creeping along and so was he when we found ourselves within a stone’s throw of each other! Then the eclipse started, and the 2-foot waves became eerily calm. It didn’t get that dark, but the temp really dropped. We envied our son, Trev, who hopped in the car and drove 9 hours to see totality perfection in Nashville.​

We pulled into Charlevoix Harbor and Starla suddenly died (our starboard engine). At this point of our journey…we’ve been so indoctrinated to whatever can go wrong probably will…that our reaction wasn’t much more than ‘well, crap’!!! She was revived after a fuel filter change. That evening we gathered with about 10 other loopers and got buzzed on raisins soaked in gin (great medicine for arthritis according to the Mayo Clinic) and blackberry liquor! We made it through yet another day the Looper way :)
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Week 20: July 26 - Aug 4

8/5/2017

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Our time on the Trent-Severn Waterway has come to its end today. We have enjoyed lots of new experiences, food and towns along the way! We will now be headed into Georgia Bay, which will be the cherry on top of the Canadian sundae.

We have passed through more than 60 locks. If I never see another lock for as long as I live, it will be fine with me! However….today we went through the ‘Big Chute’ lock and it was AWESOME. Instead of being in a ‘big bathtub’ that either fills up or drains out to equal the water level on the other side, this one picks the boat totally out of the water with straps and carries it over land to the water on the other side. We’re in the boat as it crosses over. It is a one-of-a-kind system so here is a link that shows more detail https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DZGB52oUGY  It was a good chance to inspect any damage to our props and shafts since there were several ‘bumps’ against the rocks along the way. There were some dings around the edges of both props that will eventually need to be smoothed out, but not before we get into soft-bottomed waters again. No sense fixing something that can be bent again on another rock up here in the north.

The scenery is spectacular. Narrow canals lined with maples, birches, aspens and arctic pines lead to open bays dotted with lots of tiny islands. Almost every island has a house on it no matter how small. They use boats as cars. I have no idea whether or not electric lines run under the water to them or not. The water is SO clear it makes Beaver Lake look like a mud pond. Huge water plants grow 6-8 feet tall from the bottom and you can see the fish swim around them. It’s like looking into a gigantic fish tank. Derek caught a bass off one dock and could spot his fish 30 feet away and cast right to it. He also caught a Northern Pike…something he hasn’t done since he was a kid in Minnesota. When we pull the plants off the anchor, they literally look and feel like the plastic aquarium plants for fish tanks. All the locals say that Georgia Bay will be even more clear and idyllic.

The water is almost as cold as our nights. We will be wearing long pants and long sleeves in the mornings, yet all along the waterway kids are swimming!!! The day-time highs, around 3:00, are about 72-78 degrees. When the sun goes down, we are definitely INSIDE the boat since the  temps go down and the mosquito population goes way up. The mosquitos are huge, but quite slow since they have to carry around their massive weight! But it’s worth getting bit every now and then to see the bright Milky Way in the sky at night and listen to the loons.

We are now in fish-n-chips country. Every town says they have the best. What’s caught in the morning is fried up that afternoon, whether it be haddock, halibut, walleye or whatever. The local bakeries are to die for as well. The pies and tarts are so flaky and buttery.  Derek and I were eating butter tarts on the side of the boat, and when crust crumbs fell in the water they gave off big rainbows of lardy goodness! If I stayed here for more than a month I would weigh 200 pounds!

Gypsea, our new kitten, is an awesome first mate and has adjusted to the waves and engine noises. We have discovered little rubber tips that you glue on her nails to save our furniture. She is also wearing her little harness and  leash when she’s not inside closed doors just in case she decides to take a ‘dip’ in the water. Every day we have our own ‘America’s Funniest Videos’ watching her antics. Her favorite past time is watching Derek cast his line as he fishes and attacking every button she sees.

Mallard ducks and Canadian geese are everywhere. So are Canadian flags! People drape their houses with them. Everything is expensive. Diesel is $5 a gallon. That’s $1500 for a full tank! Yes….we are really missing having paychecks! But the people are just as nice & agreeable as the stereotype suggests. Everyone is drinking beer all the time.​

We fall asleep to the rocking of the boat and a cool breeze blowing through the hatches. Derek wakes up before dawn and spends time with his two mistresses, Portia and Starla (the port and starboard engines) stroking their strainers and pulling on their dipsticks!!!!! He makes coffee and checks the weather. I wake up to sunlight coming through the hatch in the ceiling. It always takes me a while to remember where we are! No one is allowed to talk until I’ve had a smoke and some coffee. We plan where we’ll stop at the end of the day. I brush my teeth, throw on a hat, and secure everything in the boat that may slide around while underway. Derek warms up the engines, I bring in the lines, and we’re underway. Derek does 95% of the driving while I make meals, read books, take pictures, and secure us with lines to locks, walls and docks. We’re poetry in motion! As soon as we dock or anchor, we celebrate with a cold beer and give thanks to God for another safe day on the water. Evenings are spent either with Tom and Paula (our travel buddies) or watching movies or recorded shows on DishAnywhere from our DVR at home. We walk to get groceries, do laundry, or eat out. We’re exhausted every night! Life is good :)
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    Derek and Lori Gamradt are attempting the 5,800 Great Loop on their 40' Mainship Trawler.

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